Slow Adventure in the Cambrian Mountains
It was the only day both Brochan and I had managed to have completely free for weeks. Late spring to early summer is so busy for me in the garden, lots of sowing, planting and planning to be done ready for the season to begin in full swing.
We had planned to have a day together to go for a long walk but when it got to the actual day we had no idea where to head to. Although I am lucky enough to live in a beautiful National Park called Pembrokeshire, I feel most at home in mountains, moorland and amongst trees, I am also a bit of a reclusive walker and the coast can get so busy. The nearest mountains to us are the Preselis but we visit this range so often I just want to be somewhere new to explore sometimes.
On the morning of our planned day out, Brochan had all our OS maps out on the floor trying to find somewhere that wasn’t too far but also new to us both. Eventually he settled on an area near Nant-y-Moch (one of my favourite reservoirs) so we packed the van up with cooking stuff and spare clothes and headed off.
Some might say it was an unlucky day off, rainy, chilly and foggy. But I’m one of those pluviophiles; someone who finds joy and peace on rainy days. I find it comforting not depressing and there’s something so warming about getting back inside after being drenched on the hills, changing into cosy dry clothes and thick socks, then sipping on a hot drink which warms you from the inside.
Anyway after a hour and a half drive - and a quick stop in the shops to get some snacks - we parked up in a small parking area near some forestry and headed out onto a gravelly track to begin our walk. I think we might have been having a disagreement about something and Brochan was so distracted he missed the path we were meant to take. By the time we realised we’d missed it we’d already walked quite a long way and decided to try and make a short cut rather than retrace our steps. We found ourselves pushing through thick conifer branches on endless boggy ground, trying to find the footpath, then Brochan realised he’d dropped the map somewhere on route and I had to wait in the pressing silence of the woods.
I find conifer plantations quite oppressive, there is an odd feeling in them, it’s not like natural woodland where you can find peace and tranquility; listening to birds and the soft murmur of wind. In farmed woods I feel like all the trees are stressed, they are planted to compete, to grow as fast as possible towards the light. Sometimes in mature forestry woods you see a tree that grew so close to the light, almost there, but was beaten to it at the very end. It’s tall, straight trunk toped with dried, dead branches. Just feet from reaching the canopy, light and a fleeting life.
Once Brochan returned with the map we headed onwards, eventually finding the path entering into a close cropped field of sheep and thistles. The footpath seemed so unused it had all but disappeared over time, so we followed a sheep path up the moors and onto the open access land. The plan had been to climb one of the hills ahead of us to see Nant-y-Moch glittering (or maybe not under thick cloud) below us but decided against it, we didn’t really feel like a strenuous walk and just wanted to keep on a fairly low level.
We were in the midst of the open access by now with no paths to follow at all, and it was quite difficult just to get over all the hummocks of reeds between pools of water. As we walked the rain came in, a thick band of grey heading rapidly towards us, trailing it’s showers below like odd tendrils, it all looked quite dramatic over the endless green hills. Pushing on through the rain we ended up following a little stream which bubbled over rocks and into pools, then came out onto a very well used footpath, more of a small track.
Brochan dug the map out of his bag to work out exactly where we had come to and found this footpath could lead us back to the van. We stopped for a moment so Floss could have a paddle in the steam and a drink, then we headed onwards.
One thing I love about this time of year on the mountains is the marsh thistles, these tall spindly thistles with clusters of small purple heads remind me so much of Scotland and wild marshlands. Though thistles are often seen as a weed and a nuisance (they do colonise areas very quickly and are hard to remove) they are also so important for wildlife. Insects love them due to their abundant nectar and pollen and they also provide a major food source for birds and other wildlife. I guess what I’m trying to say is although they can be a pest, they also hold so much value and shouldn’t be eradicated completely.
After a while walking along the track we reached a small lake, tall spires of purple foxgloves growing on the shore. This area must have also been where people ride there motorbikes or mountains bikes, there were tracks up and down every little hill and dip. On we went past more conifer forests and then finally came out onto the road that lead to the van. Back in the warmth and dry of the van we changed into our spare set of clothes and made a little bed of blankets for Floss which she gratefully got into, snuggling down, her damp head tucked under the blanket with just her black nose poking out.
We had planned on driving round to Nant-y-Moch reservoir to make some dinner but seeing as it was a weekend, and it’s quite a popular spot for camper vans, we decided to find somewhere that was likely to be quieter. We bumbled along a small road through valleys and hills and came to a large lay-by with a view up the mountains which seemed the perfect dinner spot. Floss emerged from her pile of blankets to sniff about outside as we got all our stuff out to begin making dinner.
The van filled with steam from our pans of boiling noodles and frying veg simmering away. As we sat there we wished we’d brought stuff to stay the night. We often don't bring our camping things, thinking we’ll defiantly not stay out, only to regret it when we’re actually parked up or walking, feeling it would be so easy and comfortable to just pitch up our tent or get out the bed in the van. It was such a beautiful spot as well and the whole time we were there, cooking dinner and eating, only one car passed us. Oh well, maybe we’d learn a lesson for next time and bring camping stuff just incase, but we probably won’t!
